Travel Book Review : "No Shortcuts to the Top" by Ed Viesturs

With a title like “No Shortcuts to the Top”, one easily mistakes it to be staid, self-help management

handbook. Till one catches a closer glimpse of the cover! Donned in red spacesuit-like apparel, an elated Ed Viesturs, the greatest American mountain climber, stands aloft with an air of accomplishment above the floating clouds below. No prizes for guessing the place, though.

The book opens to a spine-chilling account of a rescue operation, that almost turns sour, high on the slopes of savage K2 – the world’s second highest mountain peak. The reader, somewhat shaken by the distress of climbers almost swept away by an avalanche, comes face-to-face with the perils of high-altitude mountain climbing. Clearly, mountaineering isn’t for the faint-hearted.

As the reader turns the pages, tales of grit and determination (against all odds) emerge. In his quest to scale all the fourteen 8000 meter Himalayan peaks, Ed offers a peek into lives of legendary climbers he had happened to interact at close quarters. Reinhold Messner, Hermann Buhl, and Rob Hall –what drove them, how they inspired him, and in some cases, what led to their deaths.

One could think that much of the book would be about Ed – his Endeavour 8000, his climbing successes/failures, near-death experiences, and his personal chronicles. In fact, it is much more than that! What makes this book a great one is that it offers a glimpse into the world of mountaineering, albeit through his eyes.

Himalayan mountaineering may seem like ‘just another passion’ to most; but to many, it means much more. To nations sponsoring expeditions, summiting bestows national pride. To mountaineering gear manufacturers, the icy slopes of the Himalayas offer prime testing as well as marketing spots. To medical researchers, Himalayan mountaineers offer real-world evidences into the field of high-altitude medicine. To Gorkhas, it means putting their daily bread on the table. And, to climbers who risk their lives, an answer to the existential question of what gets them going.

Mountaineering, in all its pristine glory, brings with itself emotional struggles, personal sacrifices and expedition politicking, not to mention high risk. Every serious mountaineer battles the over-arching tension between passion and livelihood. During expeditions, climbers face the eternal conflict between personal summit aspiration and team goals. Expedition teams compete often leading to dereliction of duties and responsibilities. The biggest dilemma however is when a climber on a summit attempt confronts the dilemma of moving on or turning back, especially hours below the summit. And all too often, this decision often draws the line between life or death.

Ed continues to inspire the reader through every action and decision. He is no doubt a great mountaineer but also a fantabulous human being. His sagacity is reflected in his motto – “reaching the summit is optional, getting down is mandatory”. Simple as it may sound, one only realizes by reading his accounts how tough it is to abide by it. He also displays commendable sagacity in the face of extreme adversity, exemplified during the infamous 1996 Everest disaster rescue operations.

Beautifully woven and gripping, this book is replete with remarkable experiences, interesting anecdotes, copious insights and helpful tips. Stories of hope amidst despair and triumph against tragedy throw open more questions about the prudence of engaging in high-risk adventure sports such as Himalayan mountaineering.

In essence, a must read for every trekker and an aspiring mountaineer.